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THE CHANGING
SILHOUETTE

IN
WOMEN’S FASHION

HEMLINES
AND
WAISTLINES

In the early 1920s, fashion was still under the influence of the postwar period. Hemlines of coats, dresses, and skirts were at mid-calf. The waistline was still in its natural position and was accentuated by a belt.

1920

At the start of the decade, the obligatory hats complementing the outfit were mostly wide-brimmed and lavishly trimmed with ribbons, feathers, and flowers. More and more women were cutting their hair—many still wore it medium-length and wavy or in a simple bun at the back of the head.

HATS AND HAIRSTYLES
1922
FALLING HEMLINES
AND WAISTLINES

In 1922, the hems of coats and skirts temporarily dropped even lower, falling as far as the ankle. At the same time, the waistline gradually moved toward the hips. The result was a straight, moderately wide silhouette. The new look acquired a horizontal accent by way of loose-fitting belts below the waistline.

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SHORT SKIRTS,
LOW WAISTS
1925

In 1925, dresses and coats displayed the characteristics typically associated with 1920s fashion: a short, almost knee-length skirt and a low waist. Slim-fitting dresses, like the one shown here, its back visible in the mirror, had skirts with fullness that was achieved through the addition of pleats, which burst open when the wearer turned, causing the skirt to sway and allowing freedom of movement.

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THE SLIM SILHOUETTE

Never before in the history of fashion had skirts been so short. Dresses and coats fell loosely over the waist and hips.

The slender, straight silhouette was visually elongated through the close-fitting brimless or narrow-brimmed cloche hats and the strap shoes with heels.

1928
UNEVEN HEMLINES
AND HEMLINES OF
DIFFERING LENGTHS

Hemlines longer at the back than the front, as well as skirts with unevenly hemmed insets that once again fell over the calves, heralded a trend reversal in the late 1920s that started in the realm of eveningwear.

1929
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ADVERTISING GALLERY
October 9, 1920 / ref. no. 128548
October 29, 1925 / ref. no. 1404
May 13, 1926 / ref. no. 1404
May 7, 1925 / ref. no 1404
October 14, 1922 / ref. no. 128548
October 25, 1925 / ref. no. 1404
n.d. (fall 1928) / ref. no. 1406
November 7, 1929 / ref. no. 1406