Press Release
SPITZE!
Study Room und DAS Forum | November 13, 2026–April 18, 2027

The dual exhibition SPITZE! focuses on a precious textile creation that, in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, was far more than just a decorative accessory: lace. It was regarded as a symbol of luxury, fashion consciousness, and social status. The significance of lace was particularly evident in the artfully designed collars worn at the time. In the Study Room and the DAS Forum, the exhibition combines historical portraits with textile treasures and offers insights into traditional manufacturing techniques. Contemporary creations and artistic works complement the presentation.

Collars as a Symbol of Status and Luxury
The section of the exhibition in the Study Room explores the history of “collar fashion” through two significant portrait collections: the iconography of Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641) from the Liberna Collection; and the collection of paintings and miniatures belonging to the publisher couple Frieda and Franz Lipperheide, housed in the Art Library of the National Museums in Berlin. In dialogue with the portraits, historical lace and collars reveal their preciousness, delicate texture, and masterful craftsmanship. Their production and care were labor-intensive and costly, which was sometimes viewed quite critically. At the same time, strict legal regulations governed who was permitted to wear these luxurious textiles. Historical wills and inventories show just how coveted they were nonetheless.

Traditional Crafts Then and Now
In the DAS Forum, the exhibition focuses on the art of both needle lace and bobbin lace. Models and videos offer insights into this masterful craftsmanship, while contemporary interpretations reveal its creative potential for today. Innovative experiments with materials and new forms of design demonstrate that lace remains a starting point for artistic exploration still today.

Lace: Bridging Past and Present
The exhibition traces the evolution of collars from historical designs to contemporary fashion. A dress by Louis Vuitton from the current fall/winter collection highlights the enduring significance of the collar as a design element, whereas a creation by designer Melanie Parzenczewski of Inlé Studio and designer Lennart Bohle offers a fresh interpretation of this time-honored lace-making technique.

Gertrud Riethmüller’s poetic works draw attention to the women who created these delicate lace pieces under often difficult conditions. By honoring their hidden labor, she erects an impressive monument to the lacemakers. In this way, a connection is forged between lace and collars, craftsmanship and representation, hardship and splendor, and past and present.